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The ABCs of Nutgrafting
  • by Joe Schibig
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Nutgrafting is a good method for  conserving
the germplasm of superior chestnut trees.
  • What little I know about nutgrafting I learned from Ed Greenwell, a skillful nutgrafter, who is director of the ACCF’s Tennessee operations.
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Basics of nutgrafting
  • Collect scions (twigs 1/16 to 1/8 in diameter) during January or February while they are dormant and after they have completed their winter chill period.  The best scions are those which have grown in full sun and have made good growth.
  • Store scions in refrigerator (not the freezer) wrapped snugly with plastic foil and enclosed in a plastic bag containing information on date of collection and identity of the specimen.
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Basics of nutgrafting
  • Gather nuts as soon as they fall from the tree or preferably before they fall to beat the squirrels and the chestnut weevils, or order nuts from a supplier.
  • Store the nuts in a refrigerator in a plastic bag filled with a good grade of moist (not wet) peat moss; the bag should have a few small holes for aeration.


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Basics of nutgrafting
  • About one week before  you are ready to do the grafting, take the nuts you will need from the refrigerator and place them in a perforated bag with moist peat moss and keep them in a warm (75 degree F) room until they produce a root about 1 inch long.
  • You will get best results by grafting American twigs into American nuts; Chinese nuts are often incompatible with American scions.
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Basics of nutgrafting
  • The tools you will need are a regular sharp knife and a knife with a square end (1/4 inch wide).
  • Disinfect your work area with rubbing alcohol and dip your knife blades in alcohol frequently to disinfect them.
  • Rinse the rooted nut off with water and blot dry with a paper towel.
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Basics of nutgrafting
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Basics of nutgrafting
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Basics of nutgrafting
  • Cut a section from your twig (scionwood) so that there is a bud (lateral or terminal) at the tip and about 1 inch of twig below the bud.  Cut the base of the twig so that it is wedge-shaped.


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Basics of nutgrafting
  • Insert the wedge of the twig firmly into the vertical incision made in the nut making contact with both cotyledon stubs.
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Basics of nutgrafting
  • Place all grafts of one particular tree in a labeled, perforated, plastic ziploc bag containing moist peat moss;  it is best if the scions are placed in a normal vertical position so the roots will grow downward.
  • Keep the grafts in a warm lighted area (close to a sunny window is good); after 2 or 3 weeks or so, the roots should grow from the petiole stubs of the nut and the bud of the twig should swell and begin to leaf out as the vascular tissue of the twig fuses with the vascular tissue of the petiole stubs.
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Basics of nutgrafting
  • When the roots are about one inch long and the bud has swollen, you should transfer the graft to a labeled peat pot or styrofoam cup containing peat moss or a good potting mix (no fertilizer needs to be added initially) which is covered with a perforated plastic film so as to hold the humidity in.  You can use grow lights or put them in a lighted window; if all goes well, the buds will expand further and green leaves will unfurl (that is a good sign).
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Basics of nutgrafting
  • When the grafts have 3 to 4 leaves on them, the plastic covers can be removed. If you use styrofoam cups, be sure to punch some drainage holes in the base of the cup.
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Basics of nutgrafting
  • After the grafts have grown for a few weeks indoors, by late April or May you can transfer them into larger pots filled with potting mix containing slow release fertilizer or periodically give them miracid or some other water-soluble acidic fertilizer; place them in a sheltered outdoor area such as a porch blocked from strong wind.


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Basics of nutgrafting
  • By late May, after the young trees have hardened somewhat, the potted trees  may be transferred to a sunnier area.  Don’t water too frequently, but when needed, give them a thorough soaking.
  • Spray for Japanese beetles and other insect pests if necessary.
  • The potted trees can be planted in the fall or the following spring.
  • Novices usually have only a 20 to 25 % success rate, so graft many and you should still have many successes.
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